Creamy Baked Mac and Cheese (With Evaporated Milk)
A silky baked mac and cheese made with a roux and evaporated milk, the winner of my four-way blind taste test. Swap in whole milk, heavy cream or coconut milk; see the notes.
Servings 8 servings
Ingredients
- 1 lb short tube pasta rigatoni, mezze rigatoni or elbows
- 6 Tbsp butter plus a little for the dish
- 6 Tbsp all-purpose flour or a 1-to-1 gluten-free flour
- 4 cups evaporated milk three 12-oz cans, warmed (or whole milk, heavy cream or coconut milk; see notes)
- 2 cups sharp cheddar shredded
- 1 cup smoked Gouda shredded
- 1 cup fontina shredded
- 1 tsp salt plus more to taste
- ½ tsp black pepper
- ½ tsp smoked paprika
- ¼ tsp mustard powder optional
Instructions
- Heat the oven to 375°F and butter a 9x13-inch baking dish.
- Cook the pasta in well-salted boiling water for 2 minutes less than the package says. Drain and toss with a little butter so it doesn’t stick.
- Make the roux: melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook 1–2 minutes, until pale and foamy but not browned.
- Pour in the warm evaporated milk a splash at a time, whisking after each one until smooth. Simmer, stirring, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, 3–5 minutes.
- Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the cheese a handful at a time, letting each melt before adding more. Season with the salt, pepper, smoked paprika and mustard powder. Taste and adjust.
- Fold the pasta into the sauce, pour into the dish and bake 15–20 minutes, until bubbling at the edges.
- Rest 5 minutes, then serve.
Notes
The ranking (blind test): 1. evaporated milk, 2. whole milk, 3. heavy cream, 4. coconut milk.
Whole milk: use the same amount plus 1 Tbsp extra butter in the roux. It looks thin at first; simmer an extra minute or two before adding the cheese.
Heavy cream: use the same amount. Richest and thickest, but it mutes the cheese.
Coconut milk: use full-fat canned, shaken hard first. The coconut flavor shows, but it works in a pinch.
Gluten-free: use a 1-to-1 gluten-free flour (I use Bob’s Red Mill 1-to-1) and a gluten-free short pasta, cooked 2 minutes short.
Make ahead: assemble, cover and refrigerate up to 1 day. Add a splash of milk on top and bake about 10 minutes longer.